The cool water laps at my feet, fizzing and bubbling like brine. Even though the sun is beating on my back, beaming in my eyes, I can't help but smile as the wind caresses my face. Waves ahead roar and roll down, crashing onto the shore with a soft hiss; peeling away at the deep bronze sand beneath my feet. Without hesitation, I plunge into the blue-green water, my board pressed up against my chest. A chill surges through me, but a small wave washes it away.
I paddle further and further, spinning my board around as a wave comes tumbling towards me. Every fibre of my being hums with adrenaline. And before I know it, I'm above the wave, soaring like an eagle, the wind propelling me forward. Except I'm going so fast, it's almost as if the wind is flying with me.