About ten thousand tonnes of ancient rusting metal, paint peeling and blistering like a bad sun burn, noisy vibrating engine that rattles everything that isn't strapped down, cutlery jitters across dinner plates, life boats on rusted chains, weather worn decks, cabins with port holes, bunk beds, berths, windows reverberating, waves relentlessly slapping and teasing this old maid of the sea, puffs of grey smoke drift lazily from the single tall funnel, dissipating into the otherwise still July air.